Ida y Vuelta

Auschwitz

2011-11-22T01:19:00.006-03:00

I put together a series of photos during my tour at Auschwitz as an expression for how I was feeling when I solemnly walked around the camp. I attempted to place myself there and try to understand how the people must have felt. But it was impossible, even as I walked through, I my mind couldn’t grasp why this happened and with such organization and force.

I shot, one after another of photos, not of the hair from only a mere 100’s of women during only the last weeks before the liberation, nor of the few hundreds of glasses or photographs of the people who came through the camp.

But of the silence.

I coudn't bring myself to shoot the gas chambers where the people thought they were going to take a shower, naked and humiliated. I couldn't press my camera button when I stood in front of the excucution wall just outside the bedrooms of children.

I could only see silence in my photos.

The silence of loss of life.

1.5 million people dead within 5 years time. Walking through Auschiwitz feels like you are walking through a machine of death, with proof of the deceased and there is no feeling of hope. This happened. Human beings did this, not imaginary monsters and not 1000’s of years ago, but just a little over 70 years ago. Not even enough time to live the life expectancy of a human being.

La Tour Eiffel

2011-09-25T18:24:00.006-03:00

Sagrada Familia by Antoni Gaudi; Barcelona, Spain

2011-09-16T06:09:00.007-03:00

Park Güell; Antoni Gaudi's home, Barcelona.

2011-09-16T05:57:00.004-03:00

Barcelona, Spain

2011-09-05T04:39:00.028-03:00

Barcelona at night.........

2011-09-04T21:45:00.007-03:00

Barcelona, Spain; First Impressions

2011-09-03T05:34:00.006-03:00

I packed up very early in the morning after one of the most wonderful weeks of my life in Madrid, Spain and headed off to the city of Barcelona, the BIG city that is. I didn’t realize how comfortable and lovely Madrid really was until I arrived into the hustle and bustle of Barcelona.

First off, the Barcelona airport makes you feel that you are entering into one of the most wonderful places on earth. It is large, modern, clean and full of beautiful people from all over the world. Welcome to Barcelona! The Metro train was not in the airport but another train called Renfe brought me in, then I had to transfer to Metro. Later, I learned that there was also a bus or I could have stayed on the Renfe into the city. It was a bit complicated. A super sweet German couple helped me understand the map. Side note: Germans are the nicest, most knowledgeable and most efficient travelers that I have met so far. A Barcelona man was helpful but a bit scatter brained (or on drugs) because there were so many ways to enter that he couldn’t commit to one to recommend me. Once I understood the map, I just went the way that seemed easiest.

During the subway ride into the city, I sensed that I wasn’t in Madrid anymore. It wasn’t as clean or friendly feeling. Regular local people stared more, looking me up and down, which happens in Buenos Aires. Probably saying to themselves, ‘there is another potential victim’. This seems to happen in cities or areas that aren’t safe, I think because the locals feel responsible to protect visitors.

FLASHBACK TO MADRID…….So, The first day I was in Madrid, I asked, “so, where can’t I go?” my response from everyone was that there wasn’t anywhere I couldn’t go. Wow! “nowhere??” I said. That is amazing. The people would continue to think and repeat again, “you can go anywhere, it’s super tranquilo”.

Here in Barcelona, I have been told to be careful on more than one occasion.

Barcelona is a big city. It is busy, crowded, the cars are fast and lights for the pedestrian cross walk are unforgiving, like Buenos Aires but with a beach and IKEA products. The architecture is well preserved and historic, Gaudi being one of the most famous, which makes it so popular to tourists. The street, Las Ramblas is a popular tourist street and I don’t understand the attraction. In fact, it’s totally boring. They sell, to be perfectly blunt, crap. People sell beer, you can drink on the street and there are with a few ice-cream stands. BORING! However, surrounding Las Ramblas in the back streets is an amazing twist and turn of old streets that you can get lost in with old bars, shops and restaurants, some renovated and some not, the oldest is 200 years old (Absinthe bar).

This area is the area that I am told to be aware of pickpockets. When I told someone that I lived in Buenos Aires and was from Chicago, they said, “Well, they won’t use a knife or a gun, so it’s saver than what you’re used to.” But apparently, it’s not the locals that are the criminals; it’s the outsiders, so the Barcelona people are very protective. Side note; I have joined up with a friend who is from Newcastle and he knows this area, so we walked around and it was mostly Muslim. So, I think that the Spanish could be a bit racist. It wasn't scary. It was like Devon st. in Chicago.

At the end of the long, boring and rather irritating walk down the Las Ramblas you pop out to the grand harbors of Barcelona and just north of there (about a half hour walk) begin the wonderful beaches. If you are a beach bum, this would be a great place to bum around. There is interesting people watching and gorgeous beaches; crowded (especially during peak seasons) but they get less populated the farther north you go. You can even take a Renfe train north if you really want to avoid the crowds.

So far my favorite thing about Barcelona is the coffee, architecture and the mountains that surround the town. Really pretty view of the mountain top from city and I’m finally caffeinated properly. Unfortunately, there was a kink in my travels because I a tiny bit of bad salmon the night I arrived to Barcelona. I am feeling better today and off to see Park Guell.

Parque del Buen Retiro. Madrid, Spain

2011-08-30T05:50:00.021-03:00

Madrid, Spain; a city which is basically desert, the river they have brings some natural green but today much of it is irrigated. Pine trees fill the Parque del Buen Retiro and when you walk around in this beautiful but mini fairy-tale type forest you can smell the strong pine, so fresh and wonderful, which many of my European friends don’t seem to be so interested by because they were born smelling this.

Madrid lies above sea level which is the only thing that makes it inhabitable, since the heat and sun is very strong. It’s in the Mediterranean Basin, that makes for mild, rainy winters and hot, dry summers. This whole area was connected to the Sahara Desert which lies directly below it on the top of Africa. It wasn't what I imagined but it was a neat surprise. But also, because of the climate (dry summers, rainy winters) it supports the growth of forests which makes me think of the movie Princess Bride. Another place that has this type of land is California, desert and forest. Here are some park photos (Parque del Buen Retiro) which is their version of a Central Park.

Madrid, Spain: Older section: Malasaña neighborhood (mostly)

2011-08-28T17:59:00.020-03:00

Madrid, Spain: First Impressions

2011-08-25T04:01:00.015-03:00

**My brain is going right back into Spanish, so it’s been more difficult for me to write English well. Forgive me, for any seemly un-edited ‘moments’ in my writing***

While flying into Madrid, I noticed that it looked brand new, sort of ‘sub-divisiony’, and tan, like the desert. Everything was the exact same color from above. It made me feel like I was entering Saudi Arabia, not Spain but then again, I’ve never been here, so what do I know?

After we landed and began heading to the passport ‘check-point’ I couldn’t help but notice the herds of Americans, mainly students, entering along with me. There were also plenty of Spanish and/or Spanish speakers to go around too. I would bet it was around 50/50. All the lines to enter the country seemed to go toward the same end. Everyone just get in line! Sweet, that seemed easy enough. And you wouldn’t believe HOW easy it was. The “border control” never talked to the people with the Spanish passport, they just scanned them, checked their photo, while talking to their co-worker and the Spanish citizen entered. They were even advertising a way for the Spanish to enter, faster, with just their thumb print called the ABC system. When it was my turn to go in, they didn’t even make sure I completed my form, which I hadn’t, because I had a question, but it didn’t seem to matter, they just tore off my copy and I was given the green light. No questions asked.

After I entered, there were people randomly shouted English at me which of course irritated me and I quickly found my luggage and left toward the subway (Metra). I took a small amount of money from the ATM, changed it in for ‘monedas’ which are coins and headed to the ‘Metra’ (http://www.metromadrid.es/es/index.html) which is connected conveniently to the airport. During my walk along the long corridor toward the Metra, dirty young backpackers lined the halls in sleeping bags trying to get some shut eye. Did I mention that they were dirty? I felt sort of sorry for them.

The Metra was so easy, I didn’t even need to get the coins, and there were several real people to talk to when I arrived, including machines with options to use your credit card. ***Don’t let them sell you on some crazy card just pay for the one ride to your hotel/hostel Eu2.50, grab a Metra map and deal with the next ride when you use the subway again. The city isn’t that big and walking around is really where the excitement is. Unless of course you were determined to see every single site in one day, then maybe a day pass would come in handy.

The ride was easy, comfortable and clean. Granted it was very early in the morning, but I was very happy and I would’ve taken my grandmother on this train. It waited for people and took off slowly. The only thing was that I didn’t realize right away that the scrolling text light-board on the inside of the train listed the final destination, not the next one. There were also individual map lines to other connecting lines which took me a minute to orientate. This could be confusing to people familiar with other systems. I was happy that I had picked up the map at the station because it really came in handy!!!

As I walked around that the city, I noticed that it seemed empty and everything was closed. I thought at first that it was the time of day but later discovered that it was the time of year. This is either a good time (or bad time) to come to Madrid because everyone is on vacation until August 31st. For those wanting to spend money, it’s not a good time. For a person like me, on a budget and a photographer who wants to shoot the buildings, it is perfect; I just wandered the empty streets with seamless photographs for blocks and blocks. Looks like I’ll have to come back another time to see all the traffic, that's not such a bad deal.

Other than that, apparently, there are no places that needed to be avoided. I have met several people from Buenos Aires and they laughed at the idea of Madrid being unsafe. There are people who need money but it certainly doesn’t feel heartbreaking or dangerous, like it did in Buenos Aires. However, when it began to get dark, I began to get the feeling that I should get home. The crowds of people were beginning to arrive and everyone was clearly drinking, it felt a bit uneasy. The men began looking at me a little more and there were huge groups of people on the subway and also at the plaza’s (pictured above) but I felt immediately safe as soon as I got to my neighborhood.

People were enjoying themselves on the street. Everyone was hanging out. It was super relaxed. There was a little business of people selling beers on the street. I could imagine that Americans who like to drink to the point of vulnerability could definitely get taken advantage of. Common sense folks!

I highly recommend Madrid so far, outside of the CENTRO or anything off of Gran Via, which scares me. This is where all the big chain hotels are, including any chain fast food or restaurants. Outside of that zone, what I have seen has been super comfy, relaxed, good on a budget, safe and the people have been very friendly. FYI: In chill areas: EVERYTHING CLOSES 11PM. So don’t forget to EAT SOMETHING or buy food before that happens!!!!

6 1/2 weeks in Europe.

2011-08-21T14:19:00.007-03:00

I have always been fascinated by Europe. I love the idea of being one of those writers or artists wandering the streets, meeting people, speaking different languages. To some, it may seem to be an irresponsible thought but for me it's an actual part of who I am. I am a natural traveler and I am an artist. I don't have too much of an attachment to environments or material possessions. I only have attachments to music, art, literature, people and occasionally food. I am the type of traveler who likes to know a little or a lot about the city I am entering into. I will also walk all day to discover new things when I get there. I am a natural tour guide to friends and if we were on a camping trip, I would be the type of person who would go out to the unknown and report back to where everyone is safe by the fire. I can’t tell whether it’s courage or stupidity, feels like a fine line sometimes.

Before I began studying Spanish in 2008, I met a dear friend from Buenos Aires. I told him about my dreams to learn his language and then move to Spain. I had dreamt about Italy for many years prior but set my sights on Spain after working for 13 years in the restaurant business with half Spanish speakers and seeing the usefulness of the language in my own country. When I told this Buenos Aires, friend of my dream, he said very nicely, ‘Molly, I wouldn’t want to get in the way of your vision but why not go to Buenos Aires?’ He explained that it was much cheaper and very similar to the Spanish culture. That evening in the fall of 2008, I went home to begin my research of Buenos Aires, and discovered that not only did it have Spanish influence but also Italian. It was a two in one deal. One year later I moved there.

I fell in love with Buenos Aires and I will always see it as my first love. I stayed there through thick and thin and it never seemed to let me touch the ground. That city was very good to me, I felt very grateful for that because I met a lot of people who didn’t feel that way. I felt very lucky to be there and extremely humbled. After a year and a half, my mind began to dream again in Europe. The problem was that I was earning the peso. That turned out to be around 1000 dollars a month. I saw the other people struggling and dreaming about these places too. I knew that I didn’t have to struggle if I just went back to the states for one summer to work. These were the moments that I felt privileged to the point of guilt.

After one year and a half in Buenos Aires, a full set of friends, a good job and a home, I packed up and left Buenos Aires toward the only “time” in Chicago, summer “time”. I came home for the summer to save money and go to Europe but I have received so much more. I have connected with new friends and old. I met my new nephew, Ryder Robinson Russ for the first time. I have seen the uniqueness and beauty in the city’s world famous architecture like never before. I reconnected with the streets, I plugged back into the rhythm. My favorite part of my return has been to speak with the locals like only a local can. It makes me feel that I am home and safe.

Now, the summer is coming to an end and I am preparing to leave for a 6 ½ week adventure to Europe. I feel so blessed to be living in this time where I could literally see the world in a couple years vs. the whole lifetime it took my family to settle to Chicago from Northern Europe, little over 140 years ago.

I start in Madrid, which is actually a very young city, founded in 1631 after taking over ownership from the Moors. Madrid has birthed many great architects and artists. There is a dreamer type attitude in most all people that I have met from Spain. Also, any person that I have met from there, so far, is very lively, fun and full of energy.

I will move through toward Barcelona and then toward Paris, then possibly Germany but over to see a friend in Krakow. This journey of mine will end in Italy thinking of the Roman Empire and how far I as an individual have come, as well as mankind, some things for good, others with room for improvement. I hope to be able to take all of it in fast enough to report back to the campfire.

CHINATOWN, Chicago IL

2011-08-21T13:34:00.009-03:00

Oak Street Beach

2011-08-05T14:02:00.008-03:00

The Lake, "Michigan" was named by the French, after the Ojibwe word "mishigama", which means "large water" or "large lake”. We use this ‘large water’ for 26 miles of activity, homes and some restaurants but mostly just pure protected lake. It is lined with a bike/walking path, grand parks and beaches. You could literally walk all day in the city without ever entering the concrete jungle.

Oak Street Beach is located in the Gold Coast, just off Oak St. through an underground tunnel. It is one of the most impressive beaches with a wonderful cafe and a view looking back at the great City of Chicago.

Along the Chicago River

2011-08-04T05:29:00.001-03:00

The 'EL' and what that actually means.

2011-07-13T04:46:00.007-03:00

One of the greatest things about Chicago is the very easy public transportation system. Although not the fastest system around, it certainly is one of the easiest and can theoretically get you everywhere. I say theoretically because there are certain parts of the city where you must take a bus or be picked up in a car and that can be very time consuming. I have waited over a half hour during a transfer. It has also taken me up to two hours to travel long distances, even just within the city limits.

Let me ‘break it down’ for you…

All the buses and city trains are run by CTA (City transit Authority) http://www.transitchicago.com/

If you want to ride the bus or city train, called the ‘EL’ because it’s mostly on an elevated track, you can use one card. You can go to the train vending machines and put money on a disposable card with cash or use the alternative machines in the station with a credit/debit card. For a 1/3/7/30 day pass go to a currency exchange or Jewel/Dominick’s grocery store. The most recent thing is called a Chicago card (or plus), which is a hard plastic card. This card gives you more protection and control over the money you put on it because you can monitor your money through the internet and cancel it if it’s lost/stolen. You can get this online and at some stations.

Keep in mind that when you are downtown the Red and the Blue line are subway trains and there is an underground transfer tunnel that connects them at Jackson. If you ever have questions, there is almost always a CTA employee at the station and they will help you, usually happily (unlike NYC).

Although they are cutting costs big time within the CTA, they are also adding conveniences that can ease the ride. Now, they are tracking the next train in many of the busier train stops with an electronic board that says when the next train will arrive. I like that, at least, I can make a choice to take a cab if I am in a hurry. For the buses, if you have internet access, log on to bus tracker http://www.ctabustracker.com/bustime/home.jsp. This will tell you when the next bus is coming. Once in a while the bus is not ‘trackable’ for whatever reason, weather or traffic. But overall it is a great system and is very accurate. I ran to another bus stop once with a stranger because we tracked a bus on a neighboring street. It was fun.

**Be careful!!! Lately, there is a new phenomenon called Flash Mobs. Several people (5-6), usually teenagers, are jumping/robbing people, who aren’t paying attention because they are on their phone or listening to music. Currently you will see a group of guys out wearing red berets, called the Guardian Angels. These group of guys are volunteering their own time and protecting stations with high crime rates. The program began in NYC in the 70's. These men are to be put at the utmost respect. To be a Guardian Angel, learn more or donate go here:
http://www.guardianangels.org/

Be mindful when you are riding the train. Don’t ‘zone out’ or trust people. Don’t fall for card game scams or any type of money scam. No one really needs money if they already got on the train and no one ever wins money on the train. Be aware of your surroundings, trust your instinct but don’t act afraid or naive. Stay out of any anger related situations that may occur in front of you. Stay out of peoples business, don't stare if someone is hitting their child. Be nice, calm and confident if someone talks to you or shouts at you. Don't worry, the bad experiences are few and far between. Just be cool kids.

On a lighter note, the trains to the suburbs are much nicer, quite luxurious in fact. There is also a conductor who collects your ticket and keeps out the riffraff. It’s a lot of fun to ride these trains.

If you are going to the BURBS, check out, Metra Trains http://metrarail.com/metra/wap/en/home.html

These trains will literally get you to every city in the Chicagoland area and beyond or close enough. One even goes to Wisconsin. Be careful to figure out which train station you are leaving from downtown because there are several. Union Station (225 South Canal Street)/ Ogilvie (500 West Madison Street) are the biggest and historically impressive. They are both located just west of where the Chicago River curves. You could hypothetically just go there, pick a city and go. You don’t even have to purchase your ticket at the station, although it’s cheaper. You could just get on and purchase it from the conductor. Trains are fairly frequent. Here are some suggestions for a day or night trip with a map here:
http://metrarail.com/content/metra/en/home/maps_schedules/metra_system_map.html

Kenosha Wisconson
Arlington Heights downtown (my home town)
Arlington Heights Race track
Elgin downtown (Gambling Boat)
Woodstock, Illinois
Hyde Park
Evanston (You can also get there by El train)
Ravinia music venue (http://www.ravinia.org/ )

The list goes on but those are just a few popular places. Enjoy Chicago without a car. I have been doing it very happily since 1998.

Home to Chicago, USA

2011-06-16T12:10:00.005-03:00

After living in Argentina since November 2009, I came home to Chicago. Any Chicagoan will tell you that the summer in Chicago is one of the most incredible experiences you could ever have. The streets are filled with people, happy people. The sleek buildings look proud over the blue sky. The color of the lake is an aqua blue covered with hundreds of boats. People are out and about striking up a conversation about whatever they are thinking. When the air feels heavy and the sun feels strong, people go a little crazy. We are used to suffering in a cold is so great that when out of the streets our brains cannot think about anything but warmth. All the sudden our brains are alive to explore our thoughts on the street. We are animals free to explore our habitat for the first time in months. My favorite thing in the world is to see this happen.

In my lifetime, I have seen hundreds of people pass me by while I observe them. Here, in Chicago, that means people of all different races, religions, neighborhoods, education levels, economic status and moods. I have seen scary people and friendly people. I have seen tourists from other countries or states and people assimilating from other countries or states. Not until now, have I truly understood what they experience. I know the loneliness and longing for family or friends. I have a list in my head of what experiences and foods are unique to my country, some of which are from other cultures, like Mexico, India or Italy. I can feel my body creating a longing for Argentina but for today I am happy to be home in my country, specifically my city. I am happy the English side of my family came to Chicago in 1972. I am very happy to be from Chicago.

Mar Del Plata

2011-04-17T10:55:00.012-03:00

A place where you can imagine the past.......

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And see the future.......

Mar Del Plata has a 'bad rep' because it is touristy but it is worth the trip, especially in the very beginning and tail end of the summer season. From Buenos Aires, it is a fairly inexpensive, relaxing get away in a beautiful city. The downtown area reminded me a little of Chicago in the summer time, the streets reminded me of San Francisco and the food was like being in Florida. They pride themselves on the water being very pure, meaning without many chemicals and very drinkable. This is said to account for wonderful baked goods. They also offer many different canned foods 'from the sea' unavailable or difficult to find in Buenos Aires.

Capilla Del Monte, Argentina

2011-02-14T20:21:00.004-03:00

San Marcos Sierras, Argentina

2011-02-14T20:09:00.003-03:00

Victoria, Entre Rios. ARG: La Tierra

2010-08-29T13:18:00.004-03:00

Victoria, Entre Rios. ARG: La Iglesia

2010-08-29T13:13:00.003-03:00

Victoria, Entre Rios. ARG: En la Casa

2010-08-29T12:49:00.009-03:00

Victoria, Entre Rios. ARG: El Casino

2010-08-29T12:44:00.005-03:00

Vicoria, Entre Rios. ARG: El pueblo

2010-08-29T12:35:00.003-03:00

A note to future residents of Buenos Aires.

2010-07-31T00:03:00.003-03:00

I have noticed a common theme amongst the ex-pats here in Buenos Aires. Many of us have come here to try something new or to do the thing that we always wanted to do. In many of our minds, there was a little voice that said ‘follow your heart’ or ‘don’t stay stagnant’. Some of us certain on what it is we are following and some of us are not.

I suppose that is like everywhere. But here, it becomes stunningly obvious to each and every one of us. We have all chosen to go very far away from home to do something very different than most and no one wants to screw that up. Each of us comes with different stories, dreams and motivations. Fascinating is the individual who is an Ex-pat.

I see some who are very organized, some who are not. Some are assimilating, some are not. It is very easy to get lost in this city and to disappear from everyone or to change who you are. This is the perfect playground to slack off while discovering one of the many secret little doors of opportunities. I believe that you can’t really understand this city within the first year and maybe not even within several years.

Every ex-pat I know would tell you that Buenos Aires has brought them joy and disappointment within the same day, many times within the same hour. Is that just life? Or is it that Buenos Aires is a city with a unique force, strength and a strong deal of character or perhaps a little drama. Residents know that there is consistently adventures or unexpected situations around the corner.

This is one of the few places in the world that you can safely just come and see what happens to you. It isn’t uncommon. Some just come. Many just come. “Just get there”, I remember these exact words were given to me as advice during my last year in the U.S.

You either come to the point in your life where you believe that everything happens to you for a reason or you don’t. Half of that is what you make of it; the other half is actual opportunities being present. Need a lesson on getting yourself up off the ground, trying again and patience? I would recommend spending a little time in Buenos Aires.

Argentina turned 200 years old....May 25th 2010.

2010-07-30T20:17:00.004-03:00

True Happiness.

2010-07-15T12:55:00.004-03:00

One of my favorite quotes:

"Happiness cannot be traveled to, owned, earned, worn or consumed. Happiness is the spiritual experience of living every minute with love, grace and gratitude" –Denis Waitley

I love the simplicity and bluntness it achieves. It also was a very helpful quote during my traveling abroad. It kept me focused on my true happiness and not an external happiness that can many times be fleeting. I really asked myself about this trip before I came, “molly? What are your reasons for this?”

When I was a little girl, I was always the first person to friend the new person at school. I remember making a specific effort to go over, introduce myself and ask them to play. I felt a strong duty to make them feel comfortable. Although I was a from the Chicago-land area, my town did not have a lot of diversity, that I desperately sought. So, at the time, when a person who looked different than me came to my class, I was most certainly going to be friends with them. They were always my favorite because they came from a place that I didn’t understand, yet was eager to learn.

I was raised by a woman who talked very openly about the atrocities of racism and prejudice, describing an extremely frightful state of affairs, specifically between black and white. She also described a world with every type of person, every color, every shape and every size. I had black cabbage-patch dolls and barbies, and tons of books to go along with my imagination. She encouraged me to be open-minded to all individuals, even the ones who looked like me who were considered ‘un-cool ‘or ‘un-liked’ by my peers.

My father, traveled for his job when I was little and he would come home with stories about how people ate or went to the bathroom. He brought me books with foreign words. I remember thinking they were impossible to read, how in the world could anyone read these? When he would first arrive home from a foreign place, I remember, he would have an odd smell on him. WOW!!! These places must smell differently, of course, increasing my imagination.

I was just completely consumed with seeing the world. I used to study maps of the world, by myself. Staring for hours at the little islands or places with strange names, wondering what kind of people lived there. Interestingly, I hated my World History class and American History because I always, even before I was old enough to realize it, thought it was a bunch of (no better way to say it) bull-shit. I was determined to find out the truth about these places and the people inhabiting them.

Back to the quote:

"Happiness cannot be traveled to, owned, earned, worn or consumed. Happiness is the spiritual experience of living every minute with love, grace and gratitude" –Denis Waitley

I realize that there are a lot of people who see what I have done and thought ‘I really want to do that!! My life would be so much better’ but I ask you: What are your reasons for doing it?

In fact, I ask myself the same question when I buy something, earn something, wear something, or eat something. It mentions love, in the second half of the quote as an act you should consistently perform. But when deciding to be with one person, it is also important to be sure of ones true happiness. It is impossible to not feel happiness or better said, gratitude, when these things happen. The same is true, when you find the perfect outfit in a little store, tucked away or you get the job that you always dreamed of, maybe you eat the most delicious meal of your life. These things do not happen every day, when they do, I believe they are to be given gratitude, grace, love and honor as little miracles. They are not what stabilizes happiness. They are more like little joys of life swinging us to from one grape vine to the next.

My coldest day in Buenos Aires

2010-07-13T00:43:00.006-03:00

I would have made fun of me too just a couple months ago but I assure you, I am not just being a baby. Today was cold, windy and unexpected. Today, I believe, is as cold as it gets. In Chicago, this kind of cold is the sign of a very bad winter ahead. So, for me, I am trained to be a bit nervous. I am extremely relieved to know that this is not getting any worse. Thankfully, everyone here is only terrified of about a month of this nightmare. A month.

I am only a tad scared of not having enough clothes to get through this torturous time. I am daydreaming constantly of my gorgeous array of winter clothes that is living inside boxes in my sister’s attic. Being from Chicago, winter/fall clothes is usually the majority of a persons wardrobe. I never missed my winter clothes so much as I do now.

The reason, I think that I am fantasizing so much about my clothes is that they are of fantastic quality. It isn’t because I shop at fancy places; in fact, most of my best sweaters are from second hand stores. It is the cozy, high quality fabric that I miss. Thick cotton or wool is not common here nor is it cheap. Supply and demand.

I know that I will make it through. I have survived winters, in which, I actually hid once behind a dumpster in an alley, it was so cold. Long story, but I was canvassing door to door for a political campaign. That was over 10 years ago.

The last winter that I lived in Chicago, I woke up at 4:30am, before the snow trucks or people came. I put on long underwear, wool socks, a shirt, sweatshirt, gloves, hat, scarf and snow pants before I left the house. I then walked 3 blocks through a foot of snow to a bus that, hopefully, was coming. It was below freezing, many times.

During those cold mornings, while walking in anguish, I would drift into thoughts of Buenos Aires, a new city and the new life that I would be creating.

Today, the coldest day, in Buenos Aires, I take a look at what this journey has brought me so far and although chilly on the outside, I am warmer than I have ever been before.

De donde sos?

2010-07-09T12:09:00.002-03:00

I love the smell of coffee in the morning. I hate to sound like a Folgers advertisement but there is nothing like waking up in a house with a big pot of coffee brewing in the distance. If you add cooking bacon to that smell, I go nuts.

Yes, I am North American. And more specifically ‘I am American’. I have often been curious why we (the United States) are allowed to call ourselves American, yet no one in the America’s are.

One reason, which is perfectly valid, is that we actually have the word America in our title ‘The United States of America’, shorten it and we live in America. Therefore, I am American.

Argentina actually has a little claim to being upset about this because their official name is United Provinces of South America.

Where did they get Argentina from again? (Still researching this one.)

In Canada, they refer to themselves as North Americans. I felt silly that I never thought to include myself with Canada before. We the people of the United States can be such secluded snobs. And being here with my Canadian friends had made me realize how similar we are culturally. We have many similar habits and experiences. So I have taken on the habit of being North American.

But in Spanish they have a word for a United States Citizen. It is Estadounidense. It directly transcends from my county's name The United States, in Spanish which is Los Estados Unidos. We can say ‘Soy Americana but we can also say ‘Soy Estadounidense’. The lather is more difficult to say and there is no direct translation besides American or United States citizen. Which is why everyone, in Spanish still says ‘I am American’. However, all of us from the major U.S. cities almost always introduce ourselves as being from that city (New York, Chicago, Los Angeles…)

At the end of the day, I am from Chicago. I love my town. I love the music. I love the people. I love the language. I love the food. I love the lake and the buildings. I feel extremely blessed for being from there and I can’t imagine being from another place. I love you Chicago and if I decide to live somewhere else, I will always visit……in the summer. xo

Fate or Free-will?

2010-07-04T02:55:00.002-03:00

When I was in high school, we had an assignment to write an essay ‘Is it fate or is it free-will’? I have never been able to get over that paper. When I wrote it, I couldn’t decide on one or the other because I strongly felt that the two worked hand in hand. I consequently received a C- because the assignment was to pick one or the other. I took the C- and stood by my claim that it was like the chicken and the egg, there simple wasn’t one without the other.

I have always been a very analytical person but oddly spiritual, oddly because I wasn’t taught any religion as a child. My entire life I have been thinking of bigger than me, outside my backyard. I have always wished to see the world. I have always pictured the universe and the grand scheme. I was always having ‘realizations’ that I would announce to my friends and vice versa. Which, I see now as adorable because I was just a teenager. I liked to think that I spent my time with some deep-thinkers or philosopher type minds.

Many years have passed and many stories in my life have been written but I still think about that essay paper, fate or free-will? It seemed so simple for the other people to choose, why was it difficult for me?

One reason is that if you choose fate, then you are saying that nothing that you do is yours. You have no real choices, it only appears that you have choices but ultimately, even your choices are sketched out already. You are merely a puppet in someone else's show. What is the point?

If you choose free-will then all of the magic that life can bring us goes away. If something works out, it’s just based off your ability or connections. If there is something ‘fate-like’ that happens, it is only a coincidence. It is extremely selfish, cold and empty to me. It says nothing matters universally.

Still, it is difficult for me to commit to one or the other. And looking back, it irks me that we had this paper because I certainly don’t think a teenager has collected enough life data to honestly comprehend this question.

Today, I am still a very spiritual and analytical person. What I have recognized is that when I am really listening to my heart/or spirituality is when I am capable of making more courageous life choices. Is that fate guiding me? There are people who make courageous choices without this process and they also have results. Are those people on an auto pilot of fate?

The question is: Is it true that what is meant to be will happen?

If I answer yes; it makes me feel better and safer.
If I answer no; define what is meant to happen? We don’t know. It isn’t always what we want. This is going back into the hands of fate.

I believe in magic too much to think that we are just free-will running around rampant with no reason to be here. I also believe in love too much. I heavily lean toward fate.

Now the question is if it is fate, then why do we even have choices? What is the point to all of the information that we are collecting, life lessons or personal growth we have?

Viernes. Friday.

2010-07-02T13:36:00.004-03:00

Nothing interesting is happening to me today. Sitting in an Internet cafe in Buenos Aires because my client wasn´t at his office. I have another client in the same building in an hour, so I don´t have time to go home. After this I will most likely eat a cheese tostada somewhere and think about my Spanish or my English lessons for the day.

I am working tonight with the kids and I am very excited because they all invited friends over to play. This actually makes my job easier because they don´t want to be bothered and they always think of their own activities. I then become the referee who breaks up fights and helps them solve problems. It´s fun.

My favorite thing is that I am a novelty for the children because I speak English. When the kids without an English speaking nanny come over to play it is an opportunity for them to practice their English. At first, they are always a little timid but by the end of the visit they can´t wait to say ´Thank you, good-bye`. It´s just precious.

Tomorrow is the big game with Argentina vs. Germany. I will be with the family that I work for and they are very serious about the game. I can´t wait!

Canada Day. [day 4]

2010-07-01T14:16:00.006-03:00

Lazy day. Being Lazy. This seems to be a common theme in my life. Just last night when I was with my friend, I couldn’t think of the word lazy in Spanish. I wanted to say vago but he told me that it’s better if you say perezoso and for me perezosa because I am a girl. Vago is more of a slacker or a person who just doesn’t want to ever do anything. A slacker I am not. I am Lazy because I am tired and I do a lot. Now, I think I might be getting sick, which inspires me to be lazier but drink water and eat oranges while I am doing it.

Today is Canada Day which sounds weird to say. I want to say Canadian Day or Canada’s Day. But it seems to be Canada Day. To be honest before I came to Argentina I only had really spent time with one person from Canada. She was an artist and very peaceful woman from Vancouver and I loved her strength. I met her when I was living in Arizona. I think her name was Kathy.

For many years after that, working in the restaurant business, I noticed that I didn’t enjoy serving people who turned out to be from Canada. Usually because of the constant jokes they would make. The light hearted attitude they had irritated me while I was busting my ass in a busy restaurant. Couldn’t they see that I didn’t have time for jokes? It became a running joke with my close friends that I didn’t get along with people from Canada.

Over the years, I have analyzed it in my head wondering if it has anything to do with the French influence in Canada. Since, often I meet someone who says they don't like the French.

I have actually been thinking about this for years.

Is it possible that a person could generally not get along with an entire society? I do believe that it is possible. Generally speaking, of course.

Now, I think it is more of an influence of British humor that Canadian’s have. Especially since I have been here, I have seen, that my American mind is not advanced enough to compete with British humor and generally with most of the world in regards to most subjects. However, I get to pull the ‘I’m American’ card out and bash myself. It’s a great tool in regards to humor.

The question still stands: Is it true that I just don’t get along with people from Canada?

Here in Buenos Aires, I do have friends from Canada and my closest friend who is from Montreal is super cool and as we have realized over our conversations, that Chicago and Montreal have a lot of similarities. With music, food and the overall feel of the city. Even the pictures remind me of Chicago. I can’t wait to visit!

In the end, I love the laid back attitude that many Canadians posses and they can be very comfortable people to be around. So, yes, I can get along with people from Canada but maybe I just can’t serve them at my restaurant.

day three.

2010-06-30T20:42:00.002-03:00

I am watching 3 kids. They are 9 (girl), 7 (boy) and 4 (girl). Usually, it’s impossible to get them all together for ‘story-time’ so the 9 year old finds the Simpsons and they doze off to sleep after the show.

Last night, the 9 year old was sleeping at her friend’s house (on a school night) and the little boy crashed before we officially went to bed. Miraculously, I had the 4 year old girl all to myself and was able to finally have a proper evening of story-time. We picked a load of books that looked fun and by the end of the last book she had fallen asleep cuddling up against my arm. It was sweet and made me very happy. I left as quietly as possible and turned out the lights.

It was 10pm when I left the house and walked to the bus stop to head over to my friend’s house for a late dinner. When I got on the bus I noticed a man facing the back of the bus with a notebook sketching what he saw. The woman of the couple next to him was peeking at his work. The man of the couple was uninterested and obviously seeking his girlfriends attention. I couldn’t help but stare.

In Buenos Aires, I noticed that staring is accepted. Many people stare or obviously turn around to look at something that isn’t ‘like the other’. I find myself taking full advantage to this behavior.

I arrived at my friend’s house and ate a wonderful meal of meat and veggies sautéed. My tummy was extremely happy. I hung out and talked with friends from all over the world (Columbia, France and Germany) till around 2am before heading home.

Today I worked a little and had coffee with my dear friend Wendy.

Day 2.

2010-06-29T14:09:00.002-03:00

I set my alarm for 7am determined to not press the snooze button but as usual, pressed it, several times. I actually woke up at 8:30am or 8:45, what is the difference.

Every night before I go to bed I have these wild imaginations of waking up early and exercising. Why must I live in such a fantasy?

My problem really is that when I am sleeping my dreams are ridiculously vivid and lovely. This is why I don’t want to wake up. I seem to go into a dream state very quickly. I am always meeting new people and having fantastic new experiences. And I rationalize any excess sleep that I have with the knowledge that sleep helps my brain learn. I have convinced myself that I need extra because I have trouble learning things.

It is a beautiful Buenos Aires day. A little crisp but the sun is out. I went to the bus stop, heading off to teach English, and the bus was miraculously waiting at the stop. Oddly, the 62 rather than the 61 (which is what I take) but the 62 carries me equally to my destination. A bus waiting at a bus stop is basically non-existent in Buenos Aires because buses almost never wait for you or re-open their doors for late comers. So it felt very strange. Sometimes this city is really nice to you.

I arrived at my client’s office and was chatting with the receptionist. The receptionist is a very pretty woman with two children and loves to talk. I always get to practice my Spanish because she is always willing to chat with me and give me advice on anything in my life. She is a kind woman. It makes me sad that her relationships haven’t worked out and makes me think about my irritations with the Argentine men. You can tell that she is a fantastic mother. She told my boss that she was thrilled that I talked to her.

I came home for lunch and I am eating a peanut butter/jelly sandwich with a glass of milk. Funny, because I never really ate peanut butter/jelly sandwich and milk back home but here it seems like such a treat.

Day one. WRITERS BLOCK.

2010-06-28T04:14:00.003-03:00

I have been in Buenos Aires for 211 days. When I started this BLOG, I visualized myself writing everyday always discovering new things, with a neat little photo to go along with my neat little experience.

I am not going to stop this BLOG but it isn’t going to be exactly how I had originally planned. For the next month, I am going to share mundane and possibly monotonous experiences. There were only two pieces of advice given to me when I started writing this.

1. Don’t live your life because of your BLOG
2. Don’t write for others, write for yourself.

I have been writing since I was a little girl, around 10 years old. I have often heard of this BLOG business as being referred to as an electronic journal. Or people say, “it’s just for your memories, what a great way to preserve your experiences!”

Oh, yeah, it’s only for you, right, no one else? So, what happens if people read what you write and they maybe, I don’t know, like it? Or hate it for that matter. What happens when you have people who comment or read these ‘fantastic experiences!!’ Then what?

I will never forget my creative writing class with Mrs. Buczinsky in high school. We sent in our poetry to magazines to see if we could it get published. We talked about our audience and we thought about our stories. I understand the creative process. I love writing. It’s very natural for me. But truthfully, my life creatively has always been a battle with light and dark. When I attempt to use my creative forces, I feel the light in me and I feel whole. For me, the dark comes from me criticizing or analyzing my work. I lose inspiration very easily with all my mediums that I have ventured into. I lose concentration and focus very quickly.

I used to take pictures, some would still call me a photographer but I don’t feel this anymore. When I was in my early 20’s I put together 3 separate shows featuring local artist artists of different mediums. The night of my first opening to my first show, I vomited. I literally excused myself, went to the bathroom, threw up and came out ready to go.

I have always had issues creatively and I am losing a huge part of myself because of it. I don't want to fight my battle in myself anymore between light and dark.

I am going to put my best foot forward on overcoming my blocks. This one, the classic, Writers Block. It is an experiment starting today, day 211. I am going to write everyday for the next 30 days. It may be boring (for the reader) but I am doing it for me only. I need to get my creative juices flowing again.

UPDATE!!!!!

2010-05-15T23:18:00.007-03:00

Almost six months here in Buenos Aires and I have had many ups and downs. My other ex-pat friends all have agreed that around six months was when things began to get difficult. We are here alone. Of course, we create groups and have friends and go out. But we are alone.

I am just beginning to experience the millions of people at my fingertips because I am beginning to communicate with people. Sometimes, I am happy with what I hear, other times, I am not.

For some people, creating casual relationships, let alone, meaningful relationships, in your native language can be difficult. Not for me. I am also discovering that when I am feeling confident that I can be just as much myself in Spanish. Thankfully, I can make ‘friends’ with just about anyone. Or at least, start up a conversation.

It’s the long lasting relationships that I don’t feel very often. I think I have one girlfriend, that I met on my own, from here, which I could say is my friend, with potential for long-term. I have a very small amount of good friends. Not enough for my social tastes.

I went back and forth, thinking about going to Chicago for the summer. I work in the restaurant business and many places hire for the summer seating. I thought, I could make a lot more money in Chicago and come back, fresh. I even bought a ticket.

After talking to many different people with many different opinions and experiences, I decided to stay. One of friends said, 'All you need is courage and hope for a little luck' and you are going to be fine. I am just beginning to start talking in Spanish. I don't want to leave before the magic happens. So now, my next move is to do everything that I possibly can to find ANY kind of work here.

So far......
for money, over the last six months I have:

Watched a little 6 year old girl.
Prepped in a kitchen.
Watched/trained a dog.

(And currently)
I am an English Conversationalist/Professor.

There are many things that I wish I did better, organized better, thought about more. But I do feel that I did a lot right. I am trying not to be concerned with this and just keep going forward.

I am starting at the UBA (Buenos Aires University) next week. Out of 8 levels, my Spanish is on level 4.

That’s the latest. I don’t know where this BLOG is going but I’m entering another level of understanding for this incredible city. I will be sure to inform my readers of any interesting explorations! Thank you for being so supportive!

The artist

2010-05-09T03:28:00.003-03:00

The following photos are a collection of work that I feel symbolize many deep and intricate parts of the incredible city of Buenos Aires. Each one should stand alone but together they can tell a story. Enjoy.

Photos:Fotos de Buenos Aires.

2010-05-09T03:09:00.009-03:00

VERDULERÍAS

2010-04-29T18:44:00.007-03:00

Verdulerias are vegetable shops located on almost every block. When you see so many, it can be a little overwhelming to know which one to choose from. Some of them only sell veggies while others contain a carneceria, selling carne/pollo (Beef/chicken). Occasionally you can find one with a deli counter selling cheese/sandwich meat. You can also pick up your eggs here, for much cheaper than the supermarket.

There are several different factors that go into where to buy your vegetables.

1.Freshness
2.Convenience
3.Product
4.Price
5.Friendliness!

I say friendliness because especially when you are not from here you might not know all the words for all the veggies yet. Plus, in Argentina some of the food words are different than in other Spanish speaking countries. Palta is avocado which many of us know as aguacate. In my experience, it’s always nice to have a friendly person who can understand that you are still learning.

Also, the locals tend to ask for the product from a distance ‘one lettuce please…. and so-on..’ but, again, when you are still learning the words it can be a challenge. You can appear rude when you do it differently but when you have a nice person they understand.

On the etiquette on grabbing the veggies or asking, I know that the locals always ask and never grab. At this point, I have my regular vegetable shops and they know that I am very serious about my food and I will pass up what I need if they can’t provide me with the best quality product. So occasionally, I grab my product. But be sensitive and wait to grab the products! You will be forced to practice your Spanish. Or point!

Also, don't assume that you will always find what you are looking for. It much easier here to cook based off of what is available vs. what you need. One day I went to 10 different shops looking for rosemary. WHEW!

But still, these shops are one of my favorite things about Buenos Aires.

poema

2010-04-20T02:07:00.009-03:00

Romantic stars float over the humid air and crooked tiles
grand trees tower high above the concrete jungle protecting
the millions making love and listening to music

(on Buenos Aires ) by: Molly Probst.

El Ateneo

2010-04-17T18:28:00.003-03:00

El Ateneo is a bookstore in Buenos Aires located on Avenida Santa Fe 1860 near Callao. From the outside, it would be possible to walk past it without realizing the incredible treasure that lies beneath. Inside is a grand old theater.

Through the rows and rows of books, you can stand in the middle of the shelves and imagine the great history of this gorgeous place. When it opened in 1860, this theater hosted famous Tango shows, many musicians and theatrical shows.

In the early 1920's a man named Max Glücksmann bought the building and began to broadcast his own radio station, Radio Splendid. In 1926, he then converted it to a cinema and by 1929 was showing the city’s first shows ever presented with sound. The last movie played here was American Beauty by Sam Mendes.

After a major renovation Buenos Aires resurrected this gem into a relaxing get-away amongst the hustle and bustle of the downtown life.

There is a small selection of English books, there is a music section in the basement and a fantastic café located where the stage used to be. You can also find a seat in one of the old theater boxes on the side of the stage.

Helado/Ice Cream

2010-04-16T12:37:00.005-03:00

I am a sucker for a scoop of ice cream. Basically, I could eat a little ice cream every day. I love it. It is definitely my favorite desert of all time. Here is Buenos Aires they help me curb my craving at just about every other corner.

Ice cream! It’s homemade and delicious! You can order a range of sizes to a little cone to a big bucket for you house. Also almost all deliver! We are always calling for a bucket after a nice big meal at a friends house.

I could not even begin to tell you all of the flavors but here are my favorites:
Chocolate de mousse, Dulce de leche con brownie, Crema Almendra(almonds), Crema rusa....mmmm!

They usually have a wide selection of dulce de leche and chocolate. They also have lots of fresh fruit ice creams.

The cream and milk in the country is different than the U.S. I don’t know what is different in regards to the pasteurization process make a huge difference in the taste and quality of this ice cream. It also makes a difference with whipped cream. It is amazing.

Fun fact! Eggs and some milk products are not sold out of a fridge at the supermarket in Argentina.

Things about me!

2010-04-09T09:41:00.003-03:00

Life is a journey. Each person is given a different one but it isn’t that simple. Then it’s what that person does with each journey. Are they positive? Are the negative? Do they criticize others or themselves? What world were they born into? What land? What kind of family?

After the dice has been rolled and you are given your journey with your mind and your actions, then it’s how you see life. It’s your experience. Your opinions. Your journey.

My journey has been interesting. I am always thinking. I am always gathering data. My mind is like a sky with stars and the stars are ideas. Sometimes it’s hard for me to organize them.

Things about me.

I am lucky.
I am grateful.
I am open.
I am happy.
I am loving.
I am intrigued.
I am very curious.
I am questioning.
I am serious.
I am silly.
I am hungry.

Join me on my experience. Please help guide me in my journey. I welcome your opinion, even if it is negative. But please help me to learn more about Argentina rather then criticize. Thank you for reading.

***I am getting close to my first POST in Spanish!!

San Telmo: Sunday/Domingo

2010-04-05T18:32:00.005-03:00

Last weekend was Easter. It is a long weekend here in Argentina. Most people are off work from Thursday through Sunday. Everyone is back to work on Monday.

Yesterday, since it was just a normal day for me. I finally went to check out the street market in San Telmo. It is every Sunday. There is a little music, food, art and tango. It runs down Defensa Street starting near the pink house all the way down past San Juan Street.

Just search: San Telmo street fair‎
Google map: http://maps.google.com.ar/

If you are looking to purchase or take a nice photo of a tango dancer this is the place. I am glad that I waited to go because being able to talk the people down on purchases is important.

I bought a very soft hand woven scarf for 30 pesos (originally 40 pesos) and cheapo gloves that you would find in Walgreens for 5 pesos (they wanted 15 pesos).

Great people watching!

The Songs They Play

2010-03-28T11:18:00.004-03:00

I love Buenos Aires but they can be just a little ‘behind the times’.

Once in awhile, I walk into an office building and I feel like I am in the 80’s or late 90’s. This country doesn’t have enough money to update and they are majorly lacking in the technology department. It is a sad situation for a seemingly 'cosmopolitan' city. This seems to affect other areas too.

One of them is music.

The Argentines love music, especially English music. Thanks to the internet, there are some very well informed music lovers here in Buenos Aires. There isn’t the variety of live music that we are blessed with in Chicago. But you can easily find good live Acoustic Guitar, Jazz or Tango. I am coming to the conclusion that the problem is lack of venue, not musicians and not bands. There is always fantastic music playing on the streets.

What Argentina wins hands down with are the clubs. Going dancing in a club in the best entertainment you can consistently find any day of the week but especially the weekends. It actually reminds me of Vegas.

The Argentines are capable of an extremely impressive night out of dancing. The clubs are open till 6am-8am. When we went to a smaller town, it was 9am-10am. Crazy! But you must like the following songs.

You know you want me, Pitball
Te amo, Makano
Poker face, Lady Gaga
I got a feeling, Black Eye Peas
When love takes over, Kelly Rowland.

If you live here, you are well aware that these songs are everywhere, clubs, stores, restaurants…. Since, I arrived 4 months ago and I don’t know when it will end.

If I am missing one please list it in the comments. Thank you.

La Bomba de Tiempo

2010-03-24T23:09:00.003-03:00

If you are looking for a place to go on a Monday night, check out La Bomba de Tiempo (7pm-11pm) at Konex (http://www.ciudadculturalkonex.org/web/index.php) Located on Sarmiento 3131 in the Balvanera neighborhood or what the locals call ‘Once’.

La Bomba de Tiempo is a very energetic drum line with guest singers. http://labombadetiempo.blogspot.com/

When you arrive try to find the end of a long line and start waiting (it goes fast). Outside there are people selling beer and there was someone selling Mexican Burritos. Also, tons of people passing out flyers. It is wild!

For a moment, I felt like I was walking into Bonnaroo Music festival. Then I realized this is kind of a ‘hippie thing’. It felt like a drum circle event that would take place in the West of the States.

After they rush you inside, you pay 20 pesos and it opens up to a huge atrium. They had video screens in different places and I could hear the music. People everywhere.

As we got closer to the musicians, I noticed a huge room jam packed with people and a stage of drummers. On the sides there were groups of people dancing but mostly people were just grooving to the beat.

It got a little hot inside, so after a while; my friends and I went outside to the atrium area and just hung out with people.

Great place to meet travelers and locals too. Overall a great experience.

La Iglesia/ The Church

2010-03-21T15:25:00.004-03:00

(Church of Guadalupe: pictured above)

Religion is a funny thing here in Buenos Aires. Many people pass the church and sign the cross. Some people do it very subtlety. All day long, there are people coming in and out the churches. I haven’t been to Spain or Italy but I would think that this would be the same. But I wonder if the general beliefs are similar?

When I ask people about the subject, most of the time, I get a response of overall distrust in church, the Roman Church. They don’t agree with the money that is flowing into the church but they do believe in God. They always say, God can be found in your home, without giving money and without the church.

They are lucky here because they have a very strong sense of family, friends and community. Church isn’t there only means to a community in Argentina. They create their own communities and nurture them. The church influence may be different in smaller towns. I don't know.

There are certainly many people who do not believe in God and still create these strong bonds with friends and family.

In the U.S. the only reason that I would ever go to church would be to have a sense of community.

My personal believes are not affected by a structure and with this, here, I seem to fit in just fine. In Buenos Aires, I have a sense of community that I have always wanted, without church.

Medialunas/Facturas

2010-03-19T15:43:00.010-03:00

In Argentina, for breakfast we have coffee with medialunas or toast. Most restaurants offer a ‘desayuna special’ which turns out to be less money. Many times the ‘special’ also comes with fresh orange juice.

They also have facturas, these are almost like a coffee cake or pastry/streusel category but totally different. They are many times covered with a frosting or nut. They also can come with a fruit topping, apple or strawberry. My favorites are the ones with a custard cream filling.

These are not like donuts or pastries because these are all breads, sweet breads.

You can find medialunas that are not that sweet but you also find some that are glazed with sugar. I like my medialunas heated in the oven or you can have them at room temperature. They are like croissants.

The items that I took pictures of above are from my favorite place Bell Aria.

There are several locations.http://www.bell-aria.com.ar/inicio.html

The website does work but won't LINK.....just paste and copy for locations.

Security/Locks

2010-03-15T10:21:00.004-03:00

In Buenos Aires, we need a key to open every door from the inside. There are very few homes with a buzzer to let someone in. So when you exit the building, we bring our keys. Any time we have a visitor or delivery man, we use our keys. And many places are gated.

There is a problem here with poverty, a major one. Families live on the streets, fully equipped with mattresses and kitchens. With drugs so prevalent in the street community. There are disturbing crimes.

Over the last 10 years the AR peso went from being equal to the dollar to being 1/3 of what the dollar is worth. From what I have come to understand is that people my age and even younger remember a time when life was much safer. Children used to play on the streets and walk to school less than 20 years ago. It was a grand place to live.

Such a drastic change has brought a lot of confusion. Such poverty has brought desperation and such desperation has brought violence.

When I ask people,“ how do you think this problem could be solved?” They haven’t got a clue. There are some churches that help with food and volunteer organizations that help with education or shelter. But the government is practically ignoring the problem.

Now, the outcome is that the lock and security business is one of the largest industries in Buenos Aires.

Stars

2010-03-10T21:51:00.002-03:00

There is so much light pollution in the major cities in the U.S. that we can’t see the stars. I never realized how dramatic it was until I came to a major city with stars, Buenos Aires.

La vida...

2010-03-08T14:53:00.002-03:00

The last couple of weeks have been difficult due to a number of obstacles that I have run into here. Rather than bore you with the trials and tribulations of the last two weeks, I will just say that things are looking brighter.

I am now living in a new home with a very nice young woman from here. For now I can see clearly now, the rain has gone…….

Coldplay at the River Plate

2010-02-28T13:30:00.003-03:00

I went to see Coldplay last Friday and it was incredible. The show was fantastic but that wasn’t what was so incredible about it.

The concert was in the same stadium that the River soccer team plays and it is huge. The seats were steps, which didn’t seem strange at first. But as the stadium began to fill up, I realized that there were no aisles for walking. So in order to go to the bathroom for example you needed somehow find a way through the crowd, with no pathway, while on a steep inclination. Very exciting! And the soda and snack venders did this unbelievable well.

For interlude music, someone played “I’m a Hustler Baby,” by Jay-Z. I was one of two people who knew the song, maybe three.

Right before the concert began the crowd became very lively. They all chanted “ole ole ole ole, ole ole!” There was a ton of energy. All the sudden, the left side of the stadium started a wave. It was really cool. They whole stadium did the wave about 4 times before getting bored. During the concert, Chris of Coldplay suggested we do a wave with our cell phones. It looked like the stars. AMAZING! Definitely, the Argentines won over the U.S. in crowd spirit. It was impressive.

There is no alcohol served at these events.

The other thing that stuck me was how musical the crowd was. There was a moment when the band went back stage before the encore. The whole crowd started singing a common thread to a song they liked in order to draw Coldplay back on stage. It was awesome. In my experience, people just scream or chant the name of the Artist.

This whole concert felt different.

After the show, I was talking to my friend about this and I began to think, especially in Chicago, we have so many concerts. Everyone plays in Chicago. Here in Argentina, it is much more special when someone comes to play.

We came to the conclusion that it felt different because there was more excitement and maybe even a bit more appreciation.

The Night (Don't worry, I wasn't alone)

2010-02-26T12:42:00.000-03:00

I am on a LIST!

2010-02-25T13:39:00.004-03:00

I found myself on a list of Buenos Aires Blog. Really cool.

http://bloggersinargentina.blogspot.com/

But I began to get an immediate sense of worry in the pit of my stomach because they state that I am a daily Blogger. I was but I am not anymore.

When I first arrived, I had the time to Blog daily (I was basically on vacation) but now that I am settling into a life here, it is becoming impossible. It saddens me to say, that my vacation is over.

In order for me to stay here, I have to get a ton of different papers from Chicago, from here and then bring them all to another place so they can tell me go somewhere else.

Thankfully, my dear friend Wendy, and many others have already gone through this process and have been able to give me step by step instructions.

I haven’t gotten to the point where I have had to physically do what I stated above but that is the process. This is what I will be doing if I plan to stay here.

So right now, I watch a little girl who speaks Spanish (Spanish/English), I help prep and cook food in a kitchen (Spanish/English) and I speak to professionals (doctors, economists, managers) in English. I go to a private tutor 3 times a week and study on my own, as much as possible. And, of course, I have a social life with friends who I speak Spanish with and English. I am very tired but happy.

I still am Blogging and I have a lot of great topics for the future. The adventures are not over, in fact, this is just the beginning. STAY TUNED!

Colonia, Uruguay

2010-02-22T15:58:00.005-03:00

Yesterday, I went to Colonia in Uruguay.

You take the ‘Buquebus’out of Buenos Aires, http://www.buquebus.com/cache/HomeARG.html . It is located off of Cordoba, just East of Av Leandro N. Alem. The Buquebus is a company that has boats that travels daily back and forth to Uruguay and Brazil. They also have buses to other locations. They offer VIP and regular boarding. The VIP looked nice but if you are just going to Colonia, on the rapido ride it’s only an hour. In regular boarding they have a nice little cafeteria with sandwiches, postres, café and beverages.

The weather hasn’t been that great in Buenos Aires lately. So the boat ride was very rough. On the way back people were screaming because we were rocking so much. Since you can take your cars on the boat, all the men were staring out the back of the boat worried about their autos.

In Colonia, the main attraction is the historical area. Old houses, a light house an old war fort built of brick with a canon. There are a variety of restaurants and a couple shops. Not much happening. It is perfect for a short day trip with friends or nice romantic get-a-way for the weekend.

People stop at the stop signs. In fact, 2 or 3 cars stopped without a stop sign on a main street for my group. I felt like I was in a small town in California.

All ages and types of people ride motor bikes and you can rent them for the day. It you ever wanted to try it but were afraid, this would be the place to do it. It is very safe here.

Be careful of live music while you are eating at a restaurant. They might charge you for entertainment, even if they only play one song and go on break. This is what happened to us.

Don't exchange your money. Everyone takes AR pesos and many places even take U.S. dollars. It was a hassle because we exchanged.

Amongst my friends, by the time we left, we were all dying to get back to Buenos Aires. For some reason, after a while, there was something eerie about this town. But we all definitely have some really fun memories.

Flood Photos/Fotos de la Inundación

2010-02-20T10:37:00.003-03:00

This time, I had my camera with me. It happened again but it wasn't as bad.

Photos

2010-02-17T11:54:00.003-03:00

The Flood

2010-02-16T15:10:00.003-03:00

It was a typical rainstorm in Buenos Aires, very strong and very quick.

We all sat around and watched as the rain poured into the streets. Within a half hour the street outside looked flooded. I began to get nervous because I know the drainage system isn’t that good in Buenos Aires and began to imagine that everyone in the city was experiencing this. People were walking past the restaurant with their shoes in their hands and the garbage had begun floating down the street. The water was rising fast.

All I could think was ‘if it doesn’t stop raining we won’t be able to leave this restaurant.’

All of the sudden, water began to flood the restaurant. Everyone tried to stop it but there was little you could do. The water was going through the doors and even worse was pouring, not kidding, pouring into the basement.

I have lived through a flood before in Chicago. But I have never been in a structure while it was flooding. It was intense. It was strong. There was a current.

It stopped raining.

We all left the restaurant into the forceful water, with debris up past our knees. As we came to a main street, I looked down in either direction and noticed that the rest of the city seemed fine. That was when it dawned on me, that we were in a flood zone.

We were having an intensively different experience then the majority of the city. As we found dry land, I looked up to see crowds of people looking on into the zone that I just came from.
Everyone had their cell phone out taking pictures, many had real cameras.

I am kicking myself right now because since I have been here, I have always carried my camera. Yesterday, I left it at home. Live and learn.The photo above is not mine but it is an actual photo of where I was last night.

More importantly, to all the homes and businesses that have been affected, I hope for a speedy recovery.

STOP/ PARE

2010-02-15T00:48:00.005-03:00

The number one death of people traveling outside their country is a traffic accident. Here in Buenos Aires, I can see why.

From what I hear, in contrast to other places, like India, it is extremely safe. But for me, or for people coming from a land where pedestrians have the right of way, it can be extremely dangerous. It isn’t just the pedestrians. People in other cars are in danger too.

Nobody seems to care whose ‘turn’ it is. They just go when they want to go. Sometimes, I sit and watch intersections in awe with how it works. Many times, it feels like luck is running everything.

It is not a good idea to take a chance and dodge traffic. If the light says don’t walk, its best not to walk. You never know if a car or motorcycle is going to be speeding down the street. Cars don’t slow down when they see someone ahead.

In Buenos Aires, cars speed up.

Here, I have video footage near a STOP sign. Keep in mind; this was on Sunday and it was about a 1/3 of the traffic as other days.

Jardín Japonés

2010-02-12T11:14:00.008-03:00

Buenos Aires can get very cramped. I have found the one of the many parks is my greatest relief here. Another option for a quiet day is the Japanese Gardens. The main street is Av. Figueroa Alcorta, but it is on Av. Rodolfo Berro between Av. Sarmiento and Av. Casares. It is in Palermo on the other side of Av. Del Libertador, where all the parks are.

For only 5 pesos, it felt so good to get inside and feel a sense of peace. I arrived early and by the time I left, it was busy. Arrive early to places, if you trying to avoid people because no one is early here.

Unfortunately, you can’t use that rule with everything because many times being early can mean too early. You can’t always rely on the hours on the door. **

If you are single or lonely, don’t go to the Japanese Gardens. There are kissing couples at every turn, of all ages. But, if you have someone to kiss, definitely go to the Japanese Gardens together.

There was a cute gift shop with a cafe. The main restaurant with was in the big building pictured was a tad expensive.

There wasn’t a garden. There was a greenhouse that sold flowers and plants.

The biggest thrill was the fish in the pond. The kids fed them and they were fascinating to watch. There were so many of them.

There were quiet little sections to sit. I would have liked to have had a little blanket. There were benches but many times they were occupied.

Overall, the people were happy and friendly. It felt good to be there amongst happy people with their families.

Coffee

2010-02-11T11:37:00.004-03:00

I am a coffee drinker. There is no way around it. I love the mate but what talks to me in the dull morning start is my sweet cup of coffee.

I was a bit worried when I first arrived because coffee to-go is not common in Argentina. And I don’t have time to sit everyday at the café. This meant a few adjustments on my part. I could make it at home. Sounds simple enough, right?

Right, but in Argentina, virtually no one owns a coffee brewer because they are criminally expensive.

But I saw coffee in the stores? How are they making it?

Back to square one, I got a French press but then you have to go to a store and ask someone to grind special large grounds for you. This isn’t right. There is regular coffee at the store?

My teacher serves me little espressos from an instant coffee, just mix with water and serve. This was looking like an option but I was determined.

Then the other day, a miracle happened. The woman that I live with asked me if I wanted a cup of coffee.

I paused with intense curiosity and said, “si, por favor, gracias”.

I saw that she had regular coffee grinds from the store. She pulled out the most simple and genius piece of equipment, a cloth coffee filter. I was almost embarrassed to say that I had never seen this before. It is so logical that I can’t believe I didn’t think of it on my own!

Here is to my favorite cup of coffee!

Question/Answer

2010-02-10T08:14:00.002-03:00

Well, I have been here for almost three months. And I am becoming super, super busy.

Please forgive the delays on my regular BLOG entry. I am still having many adventures and fun! I am certainly not with a lack of subject matter, only a with a lack of time.

If you aren't a person who normally comments, or who does, please feel free today. Ask me questions about my experiences! It will be a fun and fast way to give a little more info!

Either way, there is much more to come!!!

The BEST thing I have learned in Argentina is that patience can be a persons best asset!

Besos!

Molly C. Probst

Shopping

2010-02-08T11:48:00.002-03:00

A common activity in Buenos Aires is shopping. There are shops, after shops, after shops here. It is literally never ending. There are so many little boutiques for woman that I can barely remember where I have been. Also, everywhere I turn there is another shoe store. The little no-name boutiques seems to be much of the same clothes all organized by colors and occasionally by size. There are also tons of little shops with woman’s purses, scarves, earrings and accessories. Woman’s merchandise significantly outweighs the men's. And most of the woman’s clothes are targeted to a smaller frame.

Separate from the little no-name boutiques there are some high-end brands that stand apart from the rest but they can be a bit more expensive, especially the big shops that you see in the States. There are also occasionally original designer shops thrown into the mix. It can be a bit overwhelming.

If you want to practice your Spanish, go shopping. There is always someone asking if they can help you, practically no shop leaves you alone.

For me, when I first arrived, everything seemed really cheap! And it is, if you are spending dollars for a short period of time or if you live here and you earn dollars. But when you begin to settle in to the life here and make pesos, things become rather expensive. Based on the typical pay of an Argentine, it’s surprising me that these places are so jammed with people.

I talked to many people about this and what I heard was that shopping was many times simply a form of entertainment. People window shop here and browse with little intention of purchase. Also, if you are from here and don’t have the money to buy, several shops allow you to pay in installments.

If you love to shop, especially a petite woman or a woman looking for accessories, come to Buenos Aires.

Doors

2010-02-07T11:14:00.001-03:00

I have done everything in my power to make these pictures completely even. But the structures in Buenos Aires are crooked.

Poverty in The Park

2010-02-05T20:58:00.005-03:00

The other day, a funny thing happened to me. I was interviewed by a local news station. An anchor man from channel 9 was on the street asking people their opinions on the homeless situation at a local park. People live there. I was able to communicate a little of my opinion but not enough to make the 7 o’clock news. Either way, while they stood by with the T.V. camera, I quickly took advantage of about 30 sec of shooting the scene. To be perfectly honest many times, I am unable to get certain shots when I am alone because it can be unsafe. I really don’t want my camera being stolen. And I am an obviously not from here even without a nice camera in my hand.

These pictures were in a park near the down town area. People have beds, pans, clothes and full living rooms in these parks. There is a severe problem with poverty in Buenos Aires.

Here is their stuff.

La Lluvia: The Rain

2010-02-03T15:40:00.003-03:00

It rains in Buenos Aires. During the year the highest levels of precipitation is in March but basically it commonly rains from October-April. When it is rains, it comes in quickly and there is always been thunder and lightning. I have mostly seen the storms in the middle of the night and many times they clear before the day. Today it is raining gently throughout the day.

The great thing about the rain is that it cools everything down. It is a major relief in this hot city. Unfortunately, that puts a damper on the weekend excursions to the beach, which is a journey out of the city. It’s like going to the Hamptons from NYC.

It’s good to have an umbrella but depending where you are, many people don’t put them up because there is not enough room to walk on the street. It would just make it another challenge. I am surprised that I haven’t seen more rain coats. Today, I am taking advantage and relaxing on this rainy day.

Being an Expat

2010-02-01T23:08:00.003-03:00

It has been a little over two months since I arrived in Buenos Aires and I am just now beginning to get a little ‘home-sick’ for Chicago.

I miss organization and follow through. I miss relying on a place being open. I miss life not being a treasure hunt. I miss really good service and every type of food in the world.

I miss coffee to-go being common. Side note: When you have a coffee to go here, it’s like wearing a U.S. flag shirt. I rarely drink coffee to-go.

I miss not being stared at. I miss being able to talk to anyone about anything. I miss knowing my surroundings and the people in them. I miss my people. I miss my family and I miss my friends.

But…
I do not feel the urge to back to my old world, just yet.

In my new world, feeling sorry for yourself, is not an option. I am learning to have a great deal of patience and acceptance. I am learning how to listen more. I am learning how to pay attention. I am learning to understand suffering. I am learning about my surroundings and the language. I am going with the flow more. Occasionally, I am even walking slowly.

I am meeting new people every day with different perspectives on life. I meet locals and I meet Expats. I have been building my own community of love and support.

Although, I have shed a couple tears, I have never been one to shy away from difficulty. And, I have come to discover my greatest asset is that I have never been one to shy away from people.

Verde Brote: Alimento Natural

2010-01-29T09:28:00.006-03:00

If you are vegetarian, vegan, allergic to gluten, lactose intolerant or have any dietary restrictions what-so-ever, Verde Brote: Alimento Natural 2679 Juremento will be a favorite in Buenos Aires. You can just take the D line Subte to the Juremento stop.

I enjoy it because it also has a broadest range of international food that I have seen yet, all in one store. It also has a large selection of spices, very nicely organized. They also carefully picked a couple other hard to find items, such as, pretzels, falafel mix or sushi paper. They have the biggest selection of honey, peanut butter and salsa that I have yet seen. They also offer homemade soy milanesas which are a stable for the vegan/vegetarian in Buenos Aires.

Don’t forget to check out the cute little café in the back for a coffee and a snack while you shop!

Overall, what I like most about Verde Brote is that it is a one-stop shop for the hard to shop for.

Mi Cocina

2010-01-28T12:14:00.004-03:00

I am more settled in to my life here in Buenos Aires. One of the things that I love the most has been the necessity to cook. I love food so much. Unless you cook all the time, in the U.S., cooking for one can be really expensive. In the U.S. I can go to the grocery store with a shopping list for dinner and by the time I leave the store, a $40 receipt. Or I can go to subway and get a $5.00 footlong. It's a no brainer! Especially, this last year, while I was saving for this trip, I ate a lot of Subway!

Now, that I have tapped into my cooking skills on a consistent basis. I see the reward of it as more than a way to save money or convenience, which it is here. For me, I have a whole other challenge of learning the words of the spices, vegetables, flours and such. My mind is very tired. After a long day of thinking in Spanish and English it is a joy to have my little kitchen (pictured above) at the end of the day. Here I can create something fantastic with no words.

Staying Cool!

2010-01-27T00:19:00.002-03:00

Right now, it is hot in Buenos Aires. Most of the day, my goal has been to stay cool. If I am walking around the city, I will take a break by browsing in a shop full of brisk air conditioning. Another way I have been staying cool is to walk through one of the 100’s of parks. Trees are common on every street. It is such a blessing. If it wasn’t for the trees, the summers would be unbearable.

One hot afternoon, I discovered a great little shop. It is near the ‘centro’ or downtown area. This area is full of tourists and business people. Interestingly, in this area there are several streets without trees. Truthfully, at this point, I try to avoid this area as much as possible. But if you are or have to make a trip off of the 9 de Julio subte stop, I would check out this little fast-food restaurant.

I found this place because it is literally impossible to miss. It is on the corner of Lavalle and Suipacha. It is very colorful and there is a massive amount of fruit in the window and inside. They have tons of fresh fruit already cut-up and ready to go. I actually, didn’t investigate much of the menu because I was distracted by the cut-up bananas covered with dulce de leche, topped with homemade whip cream that I bought!

It was amazing and only 8 pesos!

My First Book

2010-01-25T12:33:00.004-03:00

For some reason 8 years old was a good year for me. I have many significant memories around the age eight. One of my favorite memories was of my 2nd grade teacher, Ms. Bolsinger, reading the class, Lafcadio: The Lion who Shot Back by Shel Silverstein. It was very significant because it was longest book that I had ever read to the end, about 75 pages. It took us about a week. I remember being on the edge of my seat at every turn, of every page and never wanting it to end. It is a story about a lion who becomes a hunter. It is full of many twists, turns and comedy. It is absolutely a must have for children because it is full of adventure!

I love books because of my mom. My whole life I have loved to wander aimlessly in bookstores. I have a vision of a home with a library. Now that I am here, things aren’t that much different. I love the smell of a bookstore and the idea that someone was behind each book. When I enter into a bookstore, it is like a little oasis. It is quiet and no one bothers you. It is very peaceful.

The other day, I discovered a tiny bookstore off of a very busy street. There was a narrow walkway to the register and stacks after stacks of books. I have been thinking lately that I would like to read a book in Spanish but what? I don’t quite know what book to start with. Just as I was about to walk out of the store, I noticed this book under all the children’s books, at the bottom. I pulled it up to realize that this was the book that I would read. Lafcadio: El Leon Que Devolvio El Disparo by Shel Silverstein.

Un Beso!

2010-01-24T10:47:00.007-03:00

I find U.S. culture more fascinating now that I am outside looking in. I can see a major British influence now much more than ever. Certainly, there is a mesh of cultures colliding but the base of that is English. Many of the manners, the behaviors, the privacy or the taboos are rooted from the English culture. Plus, because people are so accustomed to so many cultures and traditions hitting them at once, many times the result is to separate.

I’ve always sensed something missing in the U.S. from our general interaction. I am an extremely affectionate and loving person. This is strange in my country. You might see more of this in small town U.S.A. but not to the degree that I have been searching for. My closest friends in my life usually come from Italian, African or Latin families. There is something there that I love. There is something with in these cultures that makes me feel more comfortable.

I am not saying that the Argentinean people are extremely affectionate, they are many times not. But when they love, they express their love. Men will hug each other with gratitude and kindness. I will see two older women walking down the street holding each other’s hands. Or, of course, romantic affection is extremely dominant. There are many, many couples kissing at restaurant tables or street benches.

But there is one thing here that I have never received so consistently my whole life. It is 'un beso'! (one kiss)

For example, in Buenos Aires, if you are walking into a room full of strangers at a party, you should go around the entire room and give everyone a kiss on the cheek while saying your name. Everybody here, even the children, give ‘un beso’ (one kiss) on the cheek to everyone they meet, when they enter or leave a room.

In the smaller towns that I have visited, I noticed that the men did shake hands. Later, I found out that, for men, shaking hands was more common in the smaller towns unless they were very close.

This is even a tradition at jobs interviews or professional meetings. Practically, nobody shakes your hand! In every situation when you meet someone be prepared to give ‘un beso’ on the cheek after and before you meet. Even at the end of my yoga class, we all give 'un beso' to the intructor before we leave the room! Now, I am already thinking about how I will adjust back in the U.S.?

That brings me to this. I give a lot of credit to the people, that I know, who have had to adapt in the opposite direction. The U.S. must seem so cold to people who are from Argentina. I can just imagine, getting a job in Chicago and accidentally giving your new boss a kiss on the cheek.

Cafe Martinez

2010-01-23T17:32:00.005-03:00

Martínez is a city in San Isidro Partido, Buenos Aires Province.

But it is also a common café or coffee shop in Buenos Aires. Locals call it the Starbucks of Buenos Aires. There are over 50 locations. For me, this isn’t necessarily a bad thing. Especially, if you are only here for a very short period of time, they offer a reliably great cup of coffee and always fresh deserts. Here in Buenos Aires, generally, service is somewhat lacking. Since I am from the restaurant business, I would say, that for Buenos Aires, Martinez runs a tight ship.

They have been around since 1933. They have a superb website:

www.cafemartinez.com.ar

Here, you can click on the green box, for a list of locations. Right now the box says Aperuras Nevos locales. Or you could just walk down the street and chances are that you will find a Martinez Café.

For people from the states who know brewed coffee. This doesn’t exist here. Here they drink espresso, a single or double. If you want a watered down espresso, you order an Americana. The only place that I have seen that has brewed cup of coffee is McDonald’s. Starbucks is one of the only places that will make an Americana filled to the top of the cup, to appear as if it was a brewed cup of coffee.

Or be like me and switch to Mate, like a real Argentine. BESOS!!!!!

Requirement to enter: RELAX (relajado)

2010-01-22T16:49:00.006-03:00

I wish anyone the best of luck, if you are in a hurry in Buenos Aires. It is almost impossible to rush around people in Buenos Aires. First, no one is in a hurry and there is a phenomenon that happens when you walk down the street. People here tend to not walk in a straight line. It is strange.

I thought that the crooked sidewalks were the problem and then I was talking to a friend of mine who works on the body (acupuncture ext.). He said that it was possible that the over-consumption of meat is causing liver damage and therefore causing an imbalance. I don’t have the answers.

I only noticed it because I am an extremely fast walker. There have been many times; walking down the street with only one person is in front of me and I still can’t get around. I have had to conjure up a great deal of patience since I have arrived. I have also discovered that my dancing skills have been the only way to combat this problem. I have been seen doing a ballet leap through crowds.

For some reason, in this city, it has been more challenging to be on time. There is always a line for everything. There is always a crowd. Many times a street is blocked off, a bus doesn’t come or the Subte is closed. There is always something. Thankfully, people usually don’t show up or are also late, so it is fine. In fact, I was told that you aren’t considered late unless it is almost 20 min after expected.

This city is seemingly never ending with people in every which way. I could walk down the angled streets for hours, finding new shops, cafés, and bookstores. There is a beat here, a ‘flow’. The longer that I am here the more this ‘flow’ becomes a part of me.

I am constantly discovering something here in Buenos Aires. Just when I think I understand this city, I am surprised. Sometimes, I feel like this city gives me a present every day. There is a balance to this offering. Just like life, sometimes I don’t like the present, other times, I do.

I truly enjoy Buenos Aires, I believe because I was completely open to a major shift in my being before I arrived. Since, I have allowed Buenos Aires to engulf me, I have been able to relax and this city has become a somewhat magical place.

A Stroll down the 'Calle' (street)

2010-01-20T08:47:00.001-03:00

Argentina needed a Martin Luther King

2010-01-19T00:50:00.004-03:00

Today has been a rather odd day for me, because in the United States, today is Martin Luther King Day. Here, in Buenos Aires, it means nothing.

There is such a sense of sadness, combined with a tremendous deal of hope, for the many people who have lived through this time of history in the U.S. The pain that our African population lived through during the civil rights movement is nearly unbearable to contemplate. Sometimes the sacrifices seem so great that it is difficult to see the progress that we have made.

Miraculously, today, we do have a black president. This is incredible. Martin Luther King would be proud. But he would not say that it is not over yet. What a gift that our country received to have a person like Martin Luther King, to bring a sense of understanding to our Nation. Argentina wasn't so lucky with this insight.

In fact, in Buenos Aires I rarely see a black person. In almost two months, I would say that I have noticed less than 10 black people.

In 1810, black people accounted for about 30 percent of the population in Buenos Aires. However, their numbers went down to 1.8 percent by 1887. Where did they go?

Argentina had slaves, almost as many as Brazil or the United States. But in the nineteenth century Argentina was desperately fighting for independence in every direction. As the story goes, it was black men who sacrificed their lives. There was also a cholera epidemic in 1861 and 1864. And a yellow fever epidemic in 1871. Both have been said to contribute to the loss. There is the theory of discrimination. That life was too hard for most black people in Argentina, so they just left. There were better opportunities and friendly faces in neighboring countries.

Because there were still woman left behind during the war-time, the social studies has estimated an upwards of 20% of the population to have some form of African descent. But few people like to admit this or talk about it.

Basically, they vanished, and with such a heavy resistance to talk about this subject in Argentina, it has created an underground debate. What really happened?

Today, less than 2% of the population is of African descent. Many people here have gone through their whole lives without knowing a single black person. If they do, chances are, they are not from here. Usually, they are from Brazil, Cuba, Africa or the United States.

I met the people pictured above because I was curious to see if I could come across a single black person today. I did, they work for the French Navy and one of them was black.

I do not want the people of Argentina to think that I am accusing them of Racism. Racism is an individual matter. This is the history that the people of Argentina came from. This is the world that exists here. You can individually choose whether to continue that world or not.

To my friends and family, who are black, I love you and I can’t imagine being raised in a world without you. Today, it is important for all of us, to focus of the progress that the United States of America has made. Although, certainly not without issues, we are making Martin Luther King’s dream a reality.

I Believe that Children are our Future

2010-01-17T21:09:00.005-03:00

There are 52 countries that speak English but only 7 of them inhabit a majority of English speakers.

Here are 22 countries that speak Spanish:
Andorra , Argentina, Belize, Bolivia, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, El Salvador, Equatorial Guinea, Guatemala, Honduras, México, Panamá, Paraguay, Peru, Puerto Rico, Spain, Uruguay, Venezuela

In most of these countries, more than half of the population speaks Spanish.

What it boils down to is that there are more native Spanish speakers in this world then native English speakers.

The U.S. never took an official language because the founders had visualized practically every single language to be spoken. They were right. It is also true that Mandarin and Hindi are the top languages in the world; meanwhile, Spanish is the language entering the most powerful country in the world.

The U.S. Census Bureau estimates that there will be 59.7 million Spanish speaking people in the U.S. by 2020. Today, there is an estimated 308.5 million people in the US and 35 million of them are native Spanish speakers.

This is not including people who speak Spanish as a second language.

The problem is that neither parents nor schools are requiring their children to speak both languages.

On the school yard, in the U.S., there are children playing together who speak both languages. There are many attempts at different programs of immersion, English or Spanish as a second language but what these children need is both. They need to be educated with both and not denied one. Because Spanish and English have many similarities it is very easy to combine them. This is one of the reasons the U.S. is experiencing ‘Spanglish’. It is being studied and tracked as an evolution to our languages.

To anyone with children, anywhere, especially in the U.S., teach your children Spanish and English. There are hundreds of reasons to encourage this. If for nothing else, it will increase their jobs and their relationships.

It will also give them the opportunity, to gracefully visit, some of 22 beautiful Spanish speaking countries of this world.

La Música

2010-01-16T15:45:00.005-03:00

When it comes to music, I have opinions but I do not hate nor do I judge. This subject is tricky because I don’t want to sound pretentious nor do I want to sound deficient or nonsensical. Music, for me, is like water or food. It is not up to me to decide what ‘tastes’ good to you. However, I am searching for what ‘tastes’ good to me and, like food, it is a necessity.

Since I have been here, I have been to several music shops. They usually have a nice Brazilian section and somewhat of a general Latin section. But, here in Argentina, they like English music. Their music shops are almost identical to the ones in Chicago. They like music that I already know and that I am ready to venture away from. Each time I ask a local about the local music, they say, ‘you mean, Tango?’

I try really hard not to laugh when someone suggests Jazz or Blues to me. But I laugh, at the irony because I am from Chicago and I have been 'been around the block', or two, with the genuine Blues scene. Reggae is really big here. I found this to be an interesting fact.

And, of course, there is Rock National music. These are local rock bands, many of them remind me of the Indie-Punk scene in Chicago but in Spanish. This scene evolved from the British Invasion of music and American rockabilly. When it comes to a unique quality Argentina has attained it within the Rock National bands. I am keeping an eye on some well known venues for these bands. One of those venues is La Trastienda in San Telmo.

I just imagined there to be more accessible Spanish-style music or Brazilian. I am thinking a little Jarabe De Palo influence. But I am looking for something that is not here. I need to re-adjust.

I went to see a local Joaquin Sabina cover artist a few weeks ago at Senior Pub, Laprida 911.(Picture above) It was a fantastic little pub, just like Chicago, with a little space in the front and a nice spot-light for the one man acoustic show. This chain smoking, joke-telling man’s name was Atilio Amir and he certainly fulfilled a need of mine for live music.

For now, I sit back and relax with what I have.
But it has come to my attention that I am still looking for Spain.

STRIKE CITIBANK !!!

2010-01-14T12:47:00.003-03:00

Today, I officially feel like an Argentine because today I STRIKE!!!!

Citibank has decided to charge me a wacky amount of money for being in Buenos Aires. I used them because they are an International Bank I was assured, by them, that they would be more reasonable with their foreign fees.

Not the case. I have been charged around 100 dollars in fees in one month.

I am a little stressed because I am dealing with closing this account and transferring all my money to another account. I did however plan ahead for this situation. Thankfully, I put someone that I trusted on the account with me so they can help me take care of the situation.

Fun Travel Tip!! I believe to travel safely and wisely you need to have a few people in your corner who you trust 100% with your personal expenses.

Join me in first Argentine Strike. STRIKE CITIBANK!!!!

Mickey D's

2010-01-13T18:41:00.004-03:00

Especially, if you are from the US, you know that there is a psychological reaction that happens to you when you see a McDonald’s. Some of us look down at McDonald’s and the people who eat it. Some of us secretly love it. I have to admit, it does bring me an automatic sense of ‘home’.

My friend Genesa recently went to Japan. After days of eating Japanese food she finally broke down and went to McDonald’s. She said that she needed a filling meal. This makes sense to me. I can imagine needing a hamburger after days of sushi, soup and noodles.

Not so in Argentina. For me the only reason that I have been and will continue to go to McDonald’s is for the ice cream. Here they have wisely attached kiosks that sell only ice cream for many of the pedestrian friendly locations. They have dulce de leche soft serve ice cream in a sugar cone for less than 3 pesos and they offer it with a swirl vanilla.

In Argentina, and I know in many other countries, McDonald’s is a special treat for the family and not for the poor. Here there is a massive amount of other fantastic food options and McDonald’s is certainly avoidable.

There is one thing that I would like to do at McDonald’s before I leave. In fluent Spanish, I will order a Big Mac because I am curious to see if the Argentine Beef brings better flavor.

The Sun is So Hot ......Oh, Mexico

2010-01-12T20:38:00.006-03:00

Being from Chicago, my entire life I have been around Mexican food. One of my best girlfriends in childhood was from Mexico and her family served me tamales. My dad has always cooked enchiladas. My family many times cooks Mexican food for holidays and gatherings. I have worked in restaurants for many years where the kitchen is always cooking Mexican food.

One day, in Chicago, I suggested Mexican food to a person from Argentina. For me, it is part of my culture. But, I didn’t get a good response, the first thing he said was, “Molly, I’m not Mexican!” Now that I am here, I assure you that the people of Argentina are not Mexican.

That day in Chicago, I wasn’t confused if my friend was Mexican or not. But now I understand what he meant. The people in Argentina do not use a lot of spicy ingredients in their food. Their spice is an occasional red pepper flake and, of course, garlic.

I love garlic. But what I am craving is a fresh jalapeno pepper or something really spicy so that my tongue burns.

My friend Wendy, who is Mexican, took me to La Fabrica del Taco on Gorriti 5062. It is one of the few Mexican restaurants in Buenos Aires. First it has a traditional open grill outside where you can sit and order your food. They have traditional homemade beverages that are served just like in Mexican. They make their own chips, which is a treat because Argentina does not have traditional tortilla chips in the grocery stores.

I sat with my un-injured tongue and for a split second pretended to be in Mexico, which made me feel like home.

Jardín Botánico y los Gatos

2010-01-11T22:58:00.005-03:00

Open in 1898, the Botanical Garden is located in the heart of Palermo. This is the park that meows at night. I saw 5 incredible green houses, over 30 sculptures, incredible species of plants from all over the world and the cats.

The man who founded this park, Carlos Thays, was a French landscape architect. He was an early environmentalist and imagined the streets lined with trees in Buenos Aires. His vision brought a ton of beauty to this city. Also, trees are one of the biggest reasons this city can stay somewhat cool in the summer.

This garden is very tranquil and free to enjoy, especially if you don’t mind snuggling up next to a cat every so often.

Red onion

2010-01-11T20:45:00.002-03:00

Thank you Santa. I asked Santa for a red onion for Christmas. Here is it. The man at the vegetable shop said that they were not common.

Sunday (Domingo)

2010-01-10T17:36:00.004-03:00

Buenos Aires does not sleep, unless it is Sunday. Streets that are usually alive with people are eerily quiet on Sunday. Many of the regular restaurants, grocery stores and vegetable shops are closed. Sunday is a time to recuperate after a long week of work and a very long weekend of dancing or ‘partying’. Whenever you wake up, you might have an asado with your family or friends. Or you might meet someone for coffee at 6pm. Or you might leave the house. The key word is might. Nothing is set in stone. No one is in a hurry, to church or to anything. It is truly a time to relax. The only thing that disrupts this fact is the tourists. Tourists do force certain businesses and areas to remain alive because where there are tourists; there is money to be made. (photos of tourist areas on Sunday)

Personally, I have been falling more into the local attitude and relaxing. The most important thing, for me, is that I have a little food in the fridge and maybe a little company for my extremely tranquil Sunday.

I am trying not to cry for Argentina........

2010-01-09T22:38:00.004-03:00

In the world, Argentina is one of the top producers of soy. They are one of the top 10 producers of grapefruit. Generally, they are rich with citrus. There is fresh orange juice offered in most restaurants. They always use lemon on their salads. Personally, I am into the grapefruit products. They have a common drink that tastes like Squirt and I always have fresh grapefruit juice in the fridge. The other day, I bought grapefruit flavored throat drops. Later, I noticed the product may contain traces of soy.

My psychic powers have been revealing themselves again. Before I came here I had no idea that Argentina was one of the top three producers of soy. But oddly in Chicago, before my trip, I had just starting on a soy product kick. Here I can purchase my soy butter and milk. I am still looking for soy ice cream.

The longer I am here, the sadder that I am for Argentina. This country is wonderful and has so much to offer the world. This country should be rich. But because of many deep wounds that I am discovering each day, they are not. For now, I am very happy to enjoy Argentina and all that it has to offer.

A Day In The Life

2010-01-08T17:51:00.006-03:00

Buenos Aires is like a box of cracker jacks because there is always a surprise inside!

For example, in the last month, I was told by two separate male waiters, in two separate locations, to pull my pants up because my underwear was distracting them at work. Last week, I discovered a park that meows when you pass it because people leave abandoned cats there. This week I witnessed a little 4 year old girl, by herself, passing out little books to people on the Subte (subway) for money.

Today I discovered that it is never a good plan to rely solely on your Subte card. Here the Subte card is just for the Subte. For the bus (collective) you have to have change. They are attempting to start a system where you can put money on a card but it isn’t at all perfected.

Today the Subte service was ‘interrumpido’ or interrupted. I sat and watched for a moment to see what the people did. For the most part, the people sat and watched also (photo above). I found the whole situation extremely interesting. I didn't attempt to know why they stopped service. But as I watched most people didn’t seem to attempt to know either or care for that matter. A friend of mine mentioned once that they stopped occasionally to strike.

I sure am glad that I am a former girl-scout because I had ignored my instinct to rely on the Subte and packed some change for the bus, just in case!

And to be better prepared I know to always have good walking shoes on. I suppose the buses could stop running too.

Dieteticas

2010-01-07T14:30:00.002-03:00

If you are on a gluten-free diet, vegan/vegetarian or can appreciate a nice organic shampoo you will be visiting dieteticas. They are all different and based on the individual owners desires. Some are focused on herbal medicines/vitamins or natural products for the body. Others are focused on food, spices and nuts. I thought that I would be thrilled to find the body products but they still have tons of fragrance in them. Surprising, I haven’t found a lot of sensitive skin products to choose from in these shops, yet. The other day, I stumbled across my dream dietetica. Upon entering, I felt an immediate sense of peace. The walls were lined with spices and there were barrels of nuts and dried fruits. I studied the spices and realized that I could get almost all the spices that I have been looking for. Of course, in the US, I am used to purchasing them in little expensive bottles or for rubs, they are already mixed with George Foreman's name on them. Here you can make you own rub easily and without breaking the bank. I am thrilled! In fact, they give you so much, as a minimum, that I had to ask them to give me half and it was still under 2 pesos. My first purchase was garlic powder. Right now, I am translating a Jerk Chicken Rub so I can go back for more.

Los Perros

2010-01-06T22:19:00.002-03:00

A dog walker in action......